slate and ditra [Archive] - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums (2024)

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tbal

08-23-2006, 05:37 PM

1st post! 800 sq. ft. of slate in the entry way, dining room, kitchen, hallway and bath/laundry. Old linoleum gone, carpet gone, and front hall ceramic out the door :clap1: Went with Ditra(bought it 1st, then read your reviews) :yeah: Thanks for backing up my gut feeling. I adhere to the good foundation method of construction. START IT RIGHT! Please give me some tips on using Ditra!

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tbal

08-23-2006, 06:22 PM

Wow! You guys are tough! I know my question was a no brainer, I've never worked with Ditra before. Durarock yes, Ditra no, please, offer me some user tips on Ditra :dance: Thanks, Tim

jadnashua

08-23-2006, 06:36 PM

You should be able to do that. Most of the people on here are working folks...sometimes it takes bit of time for an answer. What is the floor made of? Ditra will overcome some deficiencies, but when you are spending that much, the prep is critical; you want to make sure the floor is ready for stone tile. Is the floor a slab or wood? Did you check out the deflection calculator in the blue bar at the top?

lou432

08-23-2006, 06:46 PM

Welcome TBALI, Gota first name we can call ya?

Go to the link below for Ditra installation+tec info if you hav`nt already ,I`m sure any other questions can be answered here.

http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectionf/ditra/601-index.html

tbal

08-23-2006, 06:57 PM

Thanks Jim. Mfg. I beam joist 16 in. O.C. , 3/4 in. tongue & groove OSB, and luann. I would have used cement board, but the ditra caught my eye. No moving kitchen cabinets,etc. And yes, no deflection test :x:

Rd Tile

08-23-2006, 07:41 PM

You need 2 layers of wood flooring, 1/2" or better over the OSB, and did you say LUAN?, that shouldn't be anywhere in the mix, this is all assuming the I-Joists meet deflection specs for stone.:)

tbal

08-23-2006, 08:19 PM

I was thinking of an old girlfriend, Luann, but yes I meant Luan! The luan has covered 2/3 of the old flooring. I'm retiling our 1st floor, and understand the need for floor integrity. Maybe ditra wasn't what I needed.

Dan Clark

08-23-2006, 08:48 PM

I'm not a pro, but Ditra is my choice too. I think it is a fine uncoupling layer. But...

Ditra is just one of the components. It won't make up for deflection problems, warped floor, inappropriate underlayment, etc. I believe that Luan (not your old girlfriend) is one of the "bad" underlayments. Like particle board (my problem), I'm pretty sure that it has to come up or your project will have problems.

Have you used the "Deflectolator"? Take a look: http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/deflecto.pl

Good luck,

Dan.

jdm

08-23-2006, 08:56 PM

Regardless of what you do, the luan has to go. It probably has voids and does not have enough structural integrity to be under a tile floor.

tbal

08-23-2006, 10:50 PM

I don't talk much, my typing skills....... joists; 16" OC Silent floor(10x2), 3/4 OSB T&G. Never a problem with my ceramic floor in the foyer, a small crack in the corner of the closet.

Lot's of linoleum taken out of the 1st floor. That's why there's alot of luan :shake: Staples,glue, just me :bang: Installing Ditra and slate(16x16).

Built up floor to match luan, scraped glue, patched seams and cracks jumped up and down :yeah: Will someone give me an amen!!!

tbal

08-23-2006, 11:06 PM

Hey Dan, my name is Tim, thanks.

bbcamp

08-24-2006, 06:28 AM

Tim, nobody's gonna give you an "amen" or "attaboy" until you fix your subfloor. As stated before, stone needs 2 layers of plywood, and the luan doesn't count. If you use Ditra, you need a layer of 3/8" (min.) plywood over the 3/4" OSB. If you switch to CBO, the layer has to be 1/2" or thicker. Second, someone's gotta look at them I-joists. It's not very likely they meet the L/720 deflection criteria, unless the house was designed for stone floors. Look for a manufacturer's stamp, then either call them or post it here,

tbal

08-24-2006, 01:29 PM

Bob, We won't cut corners! I was trying to get it done without moving out all the kitchen cabinets. That will start as soon as we figure out the joists.

A good part of my project was covered with perimeter glued linoleum. We took all of it up and matched the rest of the floor with luan to even everything out.
Can we put the 3/8 plywood over the luan?

Our house was built in 1990. The mfg joists are Silent Floors. There are some other markings on the wood in red, but very hard to make out. The longest unsupported span is 14 ft.

Thank you everybody for your comments. Tim B.

bbcamp

08-25-2006, 05:48 AM

Tim, the 9-1/2" I-joists come in 3 flavors. The heaviest will work for stone but the lighter two won't. If you can't find something that says TJI-230, then measure the width of the flange and let me know.

The luan has to go. It's too soft to be in the subfloor, even under a layer of plywood. You can leave it under the kitchen cabinets.

tbal

08-25-2006, 05:14 PM

It's just the thought of all the glue and staples :( The flanges on the joists are
1 3/4 W x 1 1/2 H. Would it be common to leave the kitchen cabinets in place and just build up around them? My biggest concern is appliances fitting, I think we could get used to the difference in the countertop heights. I would like to Thank you again for your time, considering all the other posts you keep up with.

Sincerely,

Tim Balstad

jadnashua

08-25-2006, 07:17 PM

Leaving the cabinets in place happens a lot. The hardest thing is making sure that the dishwasher can be slide in. If the floor is much higher than the opening of the DW, you can have difficulties, or you restrict the choices of what brand and model you can use.

tbal

08-26-2006, 05:29 PM

Jim, thank you too, for all your advice. We're going to hire the neighbor kid to help me with the luan demo. Bob, I hope you take every weekend off from your net duties. Talk to you on Monday.

Tim

tbal

08-29-2006, 01:37 PM

Bob, our stats on the I-joists are on post 15. Thank you. Tim

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slate and ditra [Archive]  - Ceramic Tile Advice Forums (2024)

FAQs

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Although slate is generally less porous than some other types of natural stone, it still doesn't come close to having the water-resistance of porcelain, which – unlike natural stone – never needs to be sealed. This means porcelain tiles are far less likely to stain, and won't soak up liquids.

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If you're looking for a floor tile in a heavy traffic area, or an outdoor tile, then porcelain would be required as they are much harder and durable than ceramic.

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Slate is one of the strongest natural stone flooring materials. It's resistant to cracks, scratches, breaks, and chips. While it does need regular sealing, it's an excellent option for bathrooms, kitchens, and heavy traffic areas. Long-lasting!

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What type of tile is easiest to work with? ›

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Choose porcelain

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